Swiss Cheese Fondue

Yield: Makes 4 servings.
FOR DIPPING:

PREPARATION:

To cook the fondue in front of guests, the following prior behind-the-scenes work is necessary. Have the shredded or finely cut Swiss cheese (Emmenthaler) ready in a bowl. Near it should be the flour measured into an attractive small container and a clove of peeled garlic cut in half.

In a cooking performance one does nothing so prosaic as measuring ingredients before guests. Therefore one must practice privately to see how much wine to gurgle from the bottle to make approximately two cups. Decant two cups into a measure in the privacy of your kitchen. By estimating the amount left in the bottle you'll know how much to pour.

The juice of half a fresh lemon will equal the amount needed for the recipe that follows, and again, it is part of the drama to squeeze the lemon juice directly from the lemon half. Wrap the lemon in cheesecloth to prevent the pits from dropping in the pot. If one isn't available, measure some bottled juice into a small container.

Kirsch or cognac should be ready to pour, and whichever spices you prefer to add. You'll need a wooden spoon or fork for stirring, and don't forget to have the bite-size pieces of bread arranged neatly on a colorful napkin in a wicker basket. All these things can be prearranged on a tray ready for the performance ahead.

AT SERVING TIME:

Rub fondue pot with cut side of garlic. Discard. Pour in wine. Set over moderate heat. When wine is hot but not boiling, add lemon juice. Then dredge cheese lightly with flour and add by spoonfuls to the hot wine, stirring constantly with a wooden fork or spoon. Keep stirring until cheese is melted. Then add kirsch or cognac (actually, Cognac is great for this!) and spices, stirring until blended.

Serve and keep hot over burner. Each person in turn spears a bread cube through soft side into crust, dunks and swirls in fondue. The crust that remains at the bottom of the fondue pot should be removed with a knife and divided among the diners. Many consider this the best part.